Are Beauty Dupes Worth the Hype?

To dupe or not to dupe?

That is the question.  In the beauty world, a dupe can be one of two things: a more affordable alternative—usually a drugstore find—to a well-known product or, sometimes, a slightly dubious knock-off that comes in a similar package, formula, and/or color palette. Beauty junkies were glad to find that the Maybelline Superstar Active Wear 30H Foundation was a dead ringer for the NARS Soft Matte Complete Liquid Foundation, which factors into the first definition of a dupe because it is simply a cheaper alternative to the original. However, when the imitation is a blatant one, you can’t help but wonder if you’re buying into something illegal or unethical by making the purchase.

Are dupes legal?

Dupes can be controversial, but according to law, they are not necessarily illegal. A careful understanding of the intellectual property (IP) rights of companies can help ensure that no trademark infringing occurs, especially when marketing the product in question. The problem kicks in when the company producing the dupe words their collaterals in such a way that the consumer is misled into thinking that if they purchase the dupe, they are buying the original. One such company that rang a few alarm bells is MCoBeauty, whose line of dupes is insanely similar-looking to the products they are inspired by. CEO Shelley Sullivan was approached by mamamia.com to find out how MCoBeauty is able to operate, and she said that it involves a lot of research work with regards to packing, formula, and marketing. 

"I'm not here to mislead the customer. Everything we have is clearly identified MCoBeauty. We've done all of our intellectual property and trademark checks, and we made sure we're not infringing on anyone else's trademarks—and that's a big thing for us," she tells mamamia here.

In short, for as long as your execution does not infringe on any company’s IP or you are not marketing your product in such a way that it deceives your customer, the dupe in question can be sold legally. The big players are likely expert at protecting their IPs by now, and if they sniff out anything illegal, their legal teams are more than capable of handling it. 

Are dupes safe?

Here’s where it gets a little difficult, because you’d have to be familiar with your active ingredients, the percentages and the combinations. Some beauty writers have tried to dig deeper into the ingredients list of a high-end vitamin C serum versus a dupe they had found. The ingredient list was nearly identical and the percentage of three of the active ingredients was the same. The writers did their best to compare and contrast using science-backed research, but failed to draw a final conclusion, instead saying that this simply reinforced their theory that it is difficult for consumers to see through beauty marketing based on the information that is openly provided. 

The "safe" versus "shady" debate truly is more complex than we perceive it to be. 

Dermatologists are wary of skincare dupes, but suggest that if the ingredients look safe enough, consumers must first do a patch test on the upper inner arm for several days in a row before applying anything to the face. While such precautionary measures have been more relaxed when it comes to drugstore finds from reputable brands, it should definitely be taken into consideration, especially for those with allergies.

Are dupes ethical? 

When something is inexpensive and accessible, overconsumption tends to pull ahead in the game. Because dupes are more affordable, customers sometimes feel more encouraged to purchase them in multiples, and often, which results in more waste accumulation. There are times when the end user doesn’t even make it to the bottom of the bottle, or hit pan if it’s an eyeshadow palette. This is usually a result of an adverse effect or simply not liking the product in the end. Either way, that’s another addition to the landfill, and it isn’t even an empty. 

Sometimes, we can’t help what we buy, especially when the dupe is a legitimately good substitute for an expensive product. When I first got my hands on the e.l.f. Cosmetics Poreless Putty Primer, I knew I could kiss the dread of spending $54 on the Tatcha Silk Canvas goodbye. Not that the Tatcha product isn’t worth splurging on because it is—it’s a cult favorite for a reason. Purchasing the “original” or the high-end product may come from a place of privilege. In the end, it’s just nice to have something that works just as well and won’t give you a skin rash at a more affordable price point.

Whether you’re for duping or against it, it’s a movement that won’t be going away any time soon. After all, the beauty world is a fickle one, and it’s easy to get lost in the grand scheme of it all, especially when everybody is going gaga over the next big thing. In the end, whichever products you choose to line your shelves with remain your personal decision.