NEW: A Spanish Restaurant That Takes You On A Journey To Burgos
Dining at Chef Heny Sison’s new restaurant, one feels like an honored guest at a warm and stylish Spanish home with superb food
When Metro.Style was invited to the opening week of Deo Gracias, there were only one possible response: “If it’s Chef Heny Sison's, we’re definitely going.”
We're thrilled at having a new Spanish restaurant in Quezon City, so we don't have to drive to Makati or BGC for good Spanish fare. With the pandemic resulting in the closing of so many restaurants, it was getting harder and harder to get hold of amazing tapas without braving the length of Edsa. And maybe, as Chef Heny Sison, unarguably one of the most celebrated Filipino pastry chefs, says: “It’s time for the people in the South to drive all the way up to Quezon City for Spanish food.”
Believe me, Deo Gracias is worth the travel—whether you drive, bike or jog — or even swim if you have to!
The making of Deo Gracias
Two years in the making, the opening of Deo Gracias was delayed because of the pandemic. It's location in an ancestral home on 11 Jamboree Street had long been secured, but construction was paused and other delays ensued as the owners waited for lighter quarantine restrictions.
While the pandemic has been tough on Chef Heny, especially since her co-owned restaurant, Victorino’s, took a beating because of the lack of events and the urong-sulong dining restrictions, it actually paved the way for the completion of Deo Gracias. It was the pandemic that led her discovery of its current executive chef, Alex del Hoyo Gomez.
Originally from the Spanish city of Burgos, Chef Alex has traveled across Asia, working at restaurants in Vietnam and Singapore before finally coming to the Philippines as join the Bistronomia group of restaurants, which include Las Flores, Rambla, Tomatito, and BCN by Las Flores. Last year, he found himself running a home-based food business while trying to survive the pandemic, and that's when he finally met Chef Heny. What brought them together, they say, is: “Deo gratias!” or literally, “Thanks be to God.” They are dream team behind this inimitable Spanish restaurant.
The core of Deo Gracias is authentic Spanish cuisine given a modern twist and presentation — an approach that's echoed in the space itself, which presents as a Spanish ancestral home married to modern design elements. You’ll find heavy wooden furniture and items reminiscent of old Spanish-Filipino homes, walls softened with yellow paint, recurring circular patterns, and metal lighting fixtures that give a contemporary spin. The result is homey and classy. There are two levels of indoor dining available, plus an outdoor dining space, and an adjoining deli filled with Spanish favorites.
The lower level of El Comedor (or the restaurant proper) is a modern Spanish bistro with a bar ready to serve tapas and drinks. Go up the wooden staircase and you’ll find a spacious area that can be divided into two private spaces for smaller get-togethers, thanks to a beautiful wooden divider. Although although Deo Gracias is very much a Spanish restaurant, Chef Heny’s Filipino roots emerge in the design elements.
A door beside the bar leads to La Tienda (the deli), which is filled with breads, cold cuts, wines, and Spanish pantry essentials. Shop here and bring a little piece of Deo Gracias home with you. Just off the deli is a beautiful garden for outdoor dining, perfect for tapas nights with friends and family.
Authentic Spanish fare made modern
"The moment you step inside Deo Gracias, it’s like you are transported to Spain,” says Chef Alex. And yet, while the ambience is certainly top notch, it's the food that is the true stand-out. Everything on the menu is carefully crafted to bring the Spanish experience to the heart of QC.
The menu is varied, but not huge, as the chefs wanted to introduce dishes slowly to the market . And no doubt about it, every single dish we tried was a show-stopper, honoring their Spanish roots while introducing a brand-new twist. We were treated to Spanish classics with a more sophisticated take, each one a mouthful of bursting flavors at every bite.
While we did not get to try their Cochinillo Castellano, it’s definitely a must-try if you’re hosting a party or get-together at Deo Gracias. This Castillan-style roasted suckling pig is imported directly from Spain (one of the few ingredients that Chef Alex could not find a suitable replacement locally), so order 24 hours in advance.
Check out the gallery below for our full dinner breakdown and must-try dishes.
Deo Gracias Dining
Deo Gracias Dining
Pulpo a la Gallega ‘Deo Gracias’
A plate of sous vide steamed octopus with potato foam and sobrasada (a Spanish sausage made from minced pork). Instead of the classic pulpo dish made with sliced potatoes and paprika, this version is more creamy and flavorful because of the addition of sausage. The perfectly cooked octopus sits on top of delicately mashed potatoes seasoned with paprika and leveled up with breadcrumbs for additional crunch. With no intention to oversell this dish, Deo Gracias’ pulpo is now easily the best pulpo I’ve had in the metro.
Baguette Iberico
No Spanish restaurant experience is complete without enjoying some jamon Iberico, a type of cured ham made from Black Iberian breed pigs. This melt-in-your-mouth tapas is served wrapped over an air baguette (which you can also buy from the La Tienda) filled with tomatoes. Imagine pan con tomate but leveled up.
Croquetas de Jamon Iberico
Croquetas have never been this sinful! Continuing the jamon Iberico train, these deep fried croquettes are filled with an amazing Iberico-dotted mayonnaise. The filling is thick but light, and explodes in your mouth on first bite.
Canelones de Txangurro
Meet the Spanish canelones, a traditional tube pasta filled with ricotta and spinach. In Chef Alex's hometown, Burgos, it’s more common to see dishes like risotto and canelones being prepared and served in Burgos homes instead of paella. This particular canelones version is filled with Basque crab stew and seafood bechamel, and it's phenomenal! Don’t let looks deceive you, because one bite of this canelones is a creamy and umami mouthful. You can feel the fibers of the crab, you will enjoy the divine cream that is not overpowering the crab flavor, and you will revel at the delicacy of the wrapper that’s still for some reason thick enough to hold its filling. No doubt, the canelones were another highlight of our evening!
Fideua Mejillones y Oricios
Instead of the usual paella, Chef Alex convinced us to get fideua, which is essentially paella made of pasta instead of rice. The short noodles are toasted to mimic socarrat, that most coveted savory crust of the paella, which then creates an interesting texture in your mouth. As a fan of uni and mussels, there’s nothing to not love about this dish. Just add a bit more aioli and a squeeze of lemon to taste.
Sangria Blanca
In the same way that tapas is a cornerstone of any Spanish fare, a good wine or sangria is also a must! Taking the recommendations of the sommelier, we ordered a huge glass of their signature sangria made with white wine, orange liqueur, soda, and mixed fruits. I truly truly enjoyed this sangria: its light and bright flavor a good palate cleanser in between the flavorful and creamy dishes that we ordered.
Spiced Strawberry Gin and Tonic
This gin and tonic is a perfect for nights out with friends. We didn’t get to try their Estrella Galicia beer, which is a popular lager produced by Hijos de Rivera Brewery in Spain. But that’s definitely in my to-try list the next time I’m going back to Deo Gracias—which will definitely be soon!
Tarta de Queso Manchego
Capping off the wonderful dinner, this beautiful cheesecake is made by pastry queen Chef Heny herself. Instead of using cream cheese as is traditional in Basque burnt cheesecakes, she used Manchego to create an earthier and deeper-tasting cheesecake. It’s made even more phenomenal with their homemade jam served on the side, depending on the fruits available for the season. During our visit, we were treated to a delicious homemade mango jam, made in the kitchen with the just a teeny bit of sugar.
Another interesting note about Deo Gracias, you’ll find gigantic pots of mixed herbs surrounding the property. Chef Heny says these were intentionally planted so all herbs they use in the kitchen come straight from the garden. “Pot-to-table,” so to speak.
Oh, and there's plenty of parking also!
Check out the gallery below for a virtual tour of Deo Gracias.
Virtual Tour
Virtual Tour
El Comedor
A corner of the main dining room.
El Comedor
This staircase leads to the second floor of the main dining room, to a space that can be used for private parties.
El Comedor
The rich-hued wooden divider easily transforms the second floor area into smaller pockets for more intimate dining.
El Comedor
You'll feel like you're dining in a private home, but with a menu crafted by superb chefs.
Second floor El Comedor
La Barra
The bar where superb sangria and cocktails are crafted.
El Comedor
The main dining area is an elegant yet homey space full of warm woods, Spanish tiles and soft lighting.
Deo Gracias
Deo Gracias has all the appeal of a charming Spanish-style ancestral home with a lush garden.
Deo Gracias
Chef Heny grows many kitchen herbs and produce in the gardens, which are later used in the dishes.
El Patio
The al fresco space is perfect for relaxed dinner and drinks with friends.
La Barra
Start your evening here, with a cocktail or two.
La Tienda
And end it here at the deli, where you will want to select some of the goodies you've sampled over dinner.
La Tienda
Every little nook is stylish, comfortable and welcoming.
El Comedor
Best of all is this sense of elegance and space.
La Tienda
You'll enjoy exploring the interiors and finding nifty little touches, from the knick knacks to these charming lights.
Interiors
Deo Gracias is filled with the warmth and beauty of a home that's well cared for.
Deo Gracias
Drop by soon and experience dining the Deo Gracias way.
Deo Gracias’ La Tienda is open Tuesdays to Sundays at 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., while the El Comedor is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Call ahead at 0917-708-8727 for table reservations.
Photographs by Jovi Figueroa and Leomark Responde
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