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An Evocative Journey In Ten Exquisite Courses

Gallery by Chele’s new degustation menu lets you travel far and wide, just by sitting at the table

Article (news)

Leah Puyat

<p>When you try to find the restaurant <a href="https://gallerybychele.com/" target="_blank">Gallery by Chele</a>, there is a chance that you may get lost. The Clipp Center, the building that houses this gourmet destination, doesn’t have a sign, and the street sign that indicates 39th Street in BGC has been knocked out, perhaps by a stormy wind or an unfortunate accident. So you get down on the corner of 11th Ave and 39th St, in the hopes that you’ve reached the right place, then look up at a building with graphic geometric architectural cladding and a guard calls out to you: “Gallery?”  then you’ve hit the jackpot. When you see the life size black horse in the lobby, you’re on the right track. This feeling of being on an adventurous quest echoes the spectacular culinary discoveries about to come.</p><div><br/></div><p>The elevator has been stylized by bas-relief sculptural installations so the sensory journey already begins. The hallway before the restaurant proper is punctuated by bold and powerful art pieces, so you know that they take their name Gallery very seriously . It is the first foretaste of the craftsmanship, artistry and flights of imagination that are about to take place.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width:950px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img loading="lazy" src="https://assets-metrostyle.abs-cbn.com/prod/metrostyle/attachments/885301d6-0349-4909-a8f1-ac5f7ecd4fdc_2.jpeg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib" alt=""/><span class="fr-inner" style="text-align:left">Welcome: a duo of amuse bouche to wake up the senses, with herbs from Gallery by Chele’s rooftop garden.<span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none"><em> Gallery by Chele  </em></span></span></span></span></div><div><strong>A fitting end</strong></div><p>Gallery by Chele updates their Degustation menu every quarter, so this new menu is their last for the year. They like to balance some old favorites with new dishes since their regular clientele do look for their signature dishes. The ten course menu is entitled <strong>Ten Courses: a full experience</strong>, which believe it or not, is actually a bit of an understatement.  The <strong>Welcome</strong> course is served outdoors in the rooftop organic herb and vegetable garden, a green paradise surrounded by high rise buildings. In the spirit of a classic Filipino homecoming, the amuse bouches are called: <strong>Garden, Fresh, Home</strong> and <strong>Signature</strong>. Home stood out for me as it was inspired by the comforting and soul satisfying soup tinola, that was clearly elevated, refined but as delicious and fulfilling as its inspiration; akin to a warm hug after a long absence.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width:950px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img loading="lazy" src="https://assets-metrostyle.abs-cbn.com/prod/metrostyle/attachments/df4178d3-fc4b-46c6-9adb-e887a348aad5_1.jpeg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib" alt=""/><span class="fr-inner" style="text-align:left">Still part of the Welcome course, Garden and Fresh are updated, elevated experiments on Filipino flavors and ingredients.<span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none"><em> Gallery by Chele  </em></span></span></span></span></div><p>As we sat down to our gustatory adventure, simply called <strong>The Journey</strong>, I was enthralled by the introduction to our meal. A stark brown brochure with a panoramic view of the seashore unfolded with the words: “At Gallery by Chele, we are explorers. WE travel the Philippines and neighboring countries, examining the disparities and similarities among the local ingredients. WE engage with the outside world not only to learn about global culinary techniques, design and technology, but also to impart our knowledge to others. . . . We also travel through history, studying the age-old practices, tried and tested cooking methods and the time-honored traditions of farmers, fisherfolk and home cooks, some of which are disappearing from the modern world. . . Our journey becomes theirs; our discoveries, a shared pleasure. . . . Wherever it is that we go, we bring with us our love of nature. . . . How could we champion the country’s body of gastronomic bounty without caring for its soul?  This is why, while we will never stop exploring beyond our borders, we always remember where home is.” As someone who works with words, reading the story behind the meal was actually like an extra course of its own. Seeing the care with which they had crafted their story just made me even more intrigued and excited for the courses about to come.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width:950px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img loading="lazy" src="https://assets-metrostyle.abs-cbn.com/prod/metrostyle/attachments/98eca631-6993-4f44-b542-7c16700ba532_dfp08874.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib" alt=""/><span class="fr-inner" style="text-align:left">Sashimi Kinilaw: fresh and enlivening, tuna, yuzu and ikura is as evocative of childhood summer as a kite in the sky.<span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none"><em> Gallery by Chele  </em></span></span></span></span></div><div><strong>Related Story: </strong><a href="/food/restaurants/thirsty-king-speakeasy-in-cabel-restaurant-malacan/36411" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">NEW: A Relaxed Speakeasy Hidden In A Heritage Home</a></div><p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/chefchelegonzalez/" target="_blank">Chef Chele Gonzalez</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/carlosvillaflor/" target="_blank">Chef Carlos Villaflor</a> believe in travel, research, the magic of memory and a sense of play. There is a choice of wines or cocktails to go with each course, and I chose to go with the cocktail list. Just as a film reviewer doesn’t give away too much of the plot, I can’t go into too detailed a review of the cocktails. But what it did was truly open my mind to the limitless ways that wines, liqueurs, fruit essences, homemade kombucha and even salt can be mixed to come up with a cocktail. The array of cocktails that came to me proved to be just as colorful and varied and inspiring as the art that filled the restaurant.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width:950px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img loading="lazy" src="https://assets-metrostyle.abs-cbn.com/prod/metrostyle/attachments/ed7fc7c0-e934-4ee5-87f0-3372ae98dc40_dfp08914.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib" alt=""/><span class="fr-inner" style="text-align:left">Iberico Jigae: inspired by Chef Chele’s love for K-drama, this dish riffs on Spanish pork and kimchi stew. Hot and filling and fun to eat!<span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none"><em> Gallery by Chele  </em></span></span></span></span></div><div><strong>Land, sea, air </strong></div><p>The first course, <strong>Sashimi Kinilaw</strong>, much like the beach scene on the brochure, evoked the ocean with tuna, yuzu and ikura. Still keeping with the seaside feel, <strong>Bikini Bottom</strong>, inspired by Bicolano cuisine featured crab, coconut milk and lemongrass. <strong>Oyster Omelette</strong> was served with a miniature watercolor of the dish, which showcased three ways of serving oysters, fresh, grilled and fried, all enveloped by a rich egg fold. <strong>Laksa Inasal</strong> came with a playful and charming map of Singapore with markings of Chef Chele’s favorite stops in the Lion City. <strong>Iberico Jigae</strong> was sparked by Chef Chele’s love for k-drama and featured Spain’s famous Iberico chorizo, abolone and mushroom. The flavors were lively, distinct but still very balanced. The palate cleanser was <strong>Mango Tonka</strong>, and real vanilla was scraped over pomelo, kefir and crispy tapioca, a clever play over tropical fruits and the indulgent vanilla. </p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width:950px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img loading="lazy" src="https://assets-metrostyle.abs-cbn.com/prod/metrostyle/attachments/d9fd52a0-8c87-4fc6-848e-77d3e287608a_dfp08950.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib" alt=""/><span class="fr-inner" style="text-align:left">BSTK: a hearty beef dish when ube mash on the side made even heartier with a generous and rich pastrami rice.<span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none"><em> Gallery by Chele  </em></span></span></span></span></div><p><strong>BSTK</strong> was a tour de force, a perfectly cooked beef tenderloin accompanied by an UBE LATIK MASH, a riff on mashed potatoes but with the Pinoy fave ube; and the play on fried rice, <strong>Pastrami Rice</strong>. This course was a home run, a hearty, absolutely delicious feast all on its own, but taken with the earlier courses, a fitting main act. The trio of desserts, <strong>Tropicale</strong>, fresh fruits with frozen coconut, Silken, a chocolate mousse with soya and black sesame, and Tradition, were all luscious but light, like a restful day after an eventful trip.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width:950px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img loading="lazy" src="https://assets-metrostyle.abs-cbn.com/prod/metrostyle/attachments/b37c8984-449f-4e62-9498-2238e96c314f_dfp09004 fafa.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib" alt=""/><span class="fr-inner" style="text-align:left">Laksa Inasal: octopus, crispy chicken skin and velvety laksa sauce brightened up with pickled jicama.<span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none"><em> Gallery by Chele  </em></span></span></span></span></div><p>In addition to the sensory delights that come with the ten courses,  I was moved with the enthusiasm, deep knowledge and positive energy of the servers at Gallery by Chele. Each cocktail and each course was described lengthily but lovingly, so much so that the creative process came alive and added so much emotional connection to the truly talented and dedicated artisans in the kitchen and at the bar.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width:950px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img loading="lazy" src="https://assets-metrostyle.abs-cbn.com/prod/metrostyle/attachments/a89205bd-5957-4120-8c77-fe378ac5774b_dfp09067.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib" alt=""/><span class="fr-inner" style="text-align:left">Dorado: light-as-air fish dish with green papaya, beurre blanc and calamansi.<span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none"><em> Gallery by Chele  </em></span></span></span></span></div><p>On the night that we dined at Gallery by Chele, one chef was on holiday and another one was very busy handling a private VIP client. But even if we didn’t get to personally meet the chefs, we still got  a very deep and true sense of their inspiration and motivation. And just like any adventure, we took home some souvenirs, such as the watercolor of the omelette, the very personal map of Singaporean inspirations, and also a postcard of a diver with a note from Chef Chele of how travels can deepen our human connections.  And those travels aren&#x27;t always over land, sea or air; At Gallery by Chele, you can travel far and wide, just by sitting at a table.</p><div><br/></div><div><strong>Related Story: </strong><a href="/food/restaurants/thirsty-king-speakeasy-in-cabel-restaurant-malacan/36411" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">NEW: A Relaxed Speakeasy Hidden In A Heritage Home</a></div><div><em><a href="https://gallerybychele.com/" target="_blank">Gallery by Chele</a> | 5F Clipp Center, 11th Ave corner 39th Street, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig, Metro Manila | Call 0917 546 1673 | FB: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/gallerybychele" target="_blank">@gallerybychele</a> | IG: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/gallerybychele/" target="_blank">@gallerybychele</a> | Website:<a href="https://gallerybychele.com/" target="_blank"> gallerybychele.com</a>.</em><br/></div>