Meet Toyo Eatery's Amazing Next-Door Sibling, Inatô

Quietly tucked between Toyo Eatery and Panderya Toyo is Inatô, the latest venture from the creators of the renowned Toyo Eatery. 

Led by the visionary chef, JP ‘Jepe’ Cruz, Inatô celebrates the rich tapestry of Filipino flavors, infusing each dish with a modern twist while staying true to the timeless traditions passed down through generations.

At Inatô, diners are invited to rediscover the essence of classic Filipino cuisine through their team’s lens of innovation and personal interpretation. The team’s culinary philosophy is simple yet profound: to honor the legacy of Filipino cuisine by embracing the techniques and ingredients cherished by our ancestors. JP Cruz, a Toyo alumnus, seamlessly blends nostalgia with creativity, offering diners an unforgettable dining experience that transcends mere sustenance.

Along Karrivin Alley, you might miss the door if you’re not too observant. Inatô is devoid of flashy signs, save for a small inscription atop their doorbell. The gorgeous floor-to-ceiling door of wooden slats then swings open to welcome you into the cozy space designed in collaboration with Studio Ong. The prominent bar made from a single slab of marble from Rizal takes centerstage and is flanked by eight rattan chairs by renowned furniture designer Kenneth Cobonpue. Behind the chairs is the feature wall with a sandy, stucco-like finish gives a tropical vibe while its wavy pattern was inspired by banana leaves (you can see more of their design process below).

Even the floors were thoughtfully designed with embedded oyster shells collected from the restaurant. Inatô also has a private room that seats up to six guests for small groups who’d like to dine with a bit more privacy.

Being born of the same group and passion for Filipino cuisine, it’s easy to draw comparisons between Inatô and Toyo Eatery. But while they do have a lot of similarities, Chef Jepe points out that aside from having an a la carte menu (while Toyo focuses on tasting menus), it’s his own take on Filipino food that sets his restaurant apart — offering dishes that have never been tasted elsewhere. 

In Binisaya, Inatô means “our way”. And at Chef Jepe’s first stint as head chef, the menu is definitely a reflection of his take on deeply personal dishes. The menu — minimal in content but bursting in promise — is “an expression of his own approach to flavor” and a testament to his dedication to preserving while thoughtfully giving his own twist to Filipino classics. Each dish is a labor of love, meticulously crafted using age-old techniques that demand patience and skill. From his love of street-side ihaw to the comforting pinakbet of his childhood, every bite tells a story of tradition and innovation. And while the team works hard to source as much of their ingredients locally, they also made sure to include imported items to ensure the best quality possible; after all, these dishes are also inspired by Chef Jepe’s travels.

The short menu is divided into five sections: Tingi-Tingi, single (“tingi”) orders resembling appetizers; Bilang, Pinoy-style grilled skewers served per stick (hence, bilang or counted); Ulam, the main dishes, which has meat and seafood options, including Chef Jepe’s take on the famous overloaded Batangas Lomi; Minatamis or desserts; and Beverages, carefully selected wines that go well with most of the dishes on the menu. Here are some must-tries.

Chef Jepe started the meal off with a freshly shucked Fine de Claire Oyster (from Brittany Bay, France) slightly cured with lemon juice from their partner cooperative in Tublay, Benguet before being topped with burong mangga (fermented green mangoes), pickled radish, and siling labuyo. Now I’m not about to lie: I’m not a big fan of fresh oysters, but this was easy to slurp, not too big, not too slimy. Just the perfect amount. The restraint in this first bite is beautiful.

Next up is the twice-treated Hamachi or Yellow Tail from Kagoshima, Japan. It was fermented in Tapuy (rice wine) and salt to age the fish and develop its flavor before being sliced and quickly cured (as in kinilaw) with more Tapuy before serving. It was topped with Tambis, a small crunchy fruit much like Macopa, giving the dish a sweet component. The Tambis, surprisingly enough, still had a crunch, which was a nice contrast to the silky buttery texture of the Hamachi. This is one of this writer’s favorite bites from Inatô.

From the Bilang section, Chef Jepe personally grilled three different cuts of free-range chickens from an organic farmer in Baras, Rizal: Isol or butt topped with pickled onions (his personal favorite), Boneless Wings (my personal favorite), and Chicken Balls (almost like a Pinoy version of Tsukune) topped with cubed pickled radish. Each skewer is charcoal grilled, sprayed with their formula of soy sauce and vinegar, and generously basted with their signature sauce. This technique ensures every nook and cranny has flavor and forms a beautiful char. The flavor, though inspired by usually sweet street-side Pinoy barbecues, is not too sweet, but thoroughly savory with a subtle bitterness where it was kissed by fire.

The mains are served with steamed rice, a crispy fried fish that you can eat entirely (including the head, which was so light and crisp), and Chef Jepe’s take on Pinakbet that he learned from his grandmother growing up in Cagayan. Their Pinakbet is slow-cooked for four hours in a palayok (traditional clay pot) without water. The only flavoring they use is their own house-fermented patis (fish sauce) made from Bisugo (a local fish). The vegetables let out their own water, which steams and cooks the rest. And according to his grandma, it is never stirred; the whole palayok must be gently shaken, just enough to avoid burning and making sure each piece of vegetable is coated in the salty liquid. The result of this labor intensive technique is a deeply earthy flavor without taking away the vegetable’s natural taste. My favorites from the Pinakbet are the tomatoes (extremely squishy yet still bright red, tangy yet slightly sweet from the patis combo) and the unique squash they used, which was like no squash I’ve ever seen before.

For our visit, Chef Jepe grilled some Iberico pork from Spain and served it with tangy and subtly sweet pickled ubod (heart of palm). The pork tasted and behaved like steak! The flavors are robust without being too overpowering, each bite was tender, and the pickled radish gave it a much needed balance. The portion is big (it is a la carte after all), so be warned, you might need an additional serving of rice and Pinakbet. 

For dessert, they served Papsi, which funnily enough is short of popsicle. It’s reminiscent of the “four seasons” flavored drinks many Pinoys love; it’s a soft popsicle with a sorbet texture, making it easy to bite. Though if anyone asks my personal opinion, the refreshing flavor almost functions like a palate cleanser, readying your tastebuds perhaps for more inihaw skewers.

As you indulge in the culinary delights of Inatô, you can’t help but feel a sense of connection to the past, present, and future of Filipino cuisine. Chef Jepe and his team’s passion for great food and curated experiences shines through in every dish, reminding us of the enduring beauty of tradition and the limitless possibilities of innovation.

Inatô | The Alley at Karrivin, 2316 Chino Roces Avenue Extension, Makati City | IG: @inato.ph | Open from 6:00 to 10:30  PM | Tuesdays to Saturdays | Walk-in subject to availability, reservations recommended.

Photos: Ching Dee and Inatô