10 Best Classic Restaurants To Rediscover In Manila
Handed down like heirlooms, these retro restaurants will give you more than just a meal —they'll take you on a journey back in time!
I wonder how restaurants became “viral” fifty or so years ago. Back in the 1970s, smartphones and the Internet were still in the realm of fantasy, so I’m guessing it was all done by word-of-mouth via good old-fashioned telephones, and the then omnipresent daily newspapers.
The buzz may not have been as immediate as it is these days when “FOMO” (Fear Of Missing Out) is the acronym foodies live by, but that wasn’t really a problem. Restaurants had time to breathe, develop, and mature at their own stately pace. Quality, Service, Ambiance were the essentials to be perfected and polished over time, as there was no race to be the first to be featured on Instagram. And it worked.
Here are ten restaurants that have become classics. Handed down like heirlooms from one generation to the next, equally beloved by Gen Z and their grandparents alike; these are the most special ones that families keep on coming back to, year after year.
Gold Standard
Gold Standard
Hizon's (1946)
This was Dolphy’s favorite hangout, and he was there so often he had his own special corner. Hizon’s menu hasn’t really changed much since the legendary comedian’s swinging bachelor days in the ‘70s: the Turkey Platter special on Thursdays, and my favorites Ham Steak and Surf & Turf any day of the week. [Photo: Hizon's]
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Hizon's (1946)
This is my favorite Ham Steak, by the way. The restaurant is officially called Za’s Café, and while it’s still being readied for reopening after closing temporarily during the peak of the pandemic, the bakeshop is open for business and all the favorites are there. [Photo: Spanky Enriquez]
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Hizon's (1946)
Favorites from the bakery include the unapologetically decadent ensaymadas, the sugary taisan, the fluffy raisin bread, and their iconic caramel and mocha cakes. Third generation Hizon’s siblings Frances and Carlo are now in charge, and their social media game is genius — and that’s why their grandparents’ bakeshop is more popular than it has ever been. Location: 1197 Jorge Bocobo Street corner Arquiza Street, Manila. [Photo: Spanky Enriquez]
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Mario's (1971)
This restaurant on Tomas Morato has always been a favorite of politicians. They gravitate here because Mario’s has become a second office for so many of them through the decades. “If these walls could talk…” is a favorite line of Fil Benitez, son of the late founders, Mario and Nenuca Benitez. So many decisions that have impacted our nation have been made here, and the high-level dealing continue to this day. The politicos arrive for their powwows, and stay for the food. [Photo: @mariosresturantph]
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Mario's (1971)
Mario’s still has my best ever Caesar Salad, bar none. Prepared tableside with flair, it’s even better. [Photo: @mariosrestaurantph]
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Mario's (1971)
Ditto for the Mango Jubilee, a dessert straight out of the disco era: flames soaring in the air, always a spectacle to behold. And while the steaks and the salpicao are automatic orders, I strongly recommend their Three Mushroom Pasta: it’s low-key but definitely one of the finest items on the menu. Locations: 191 Tomas Morato, Quezon City; 8 Loakan Road, Baguio City. [Photo: @mariosrestaurantph]
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Alba (1952)
Worth the trip for the Callos alone. My absolute favorite in any restaurant in the country, bar none. I’ve been dining in Alba for years and years, in Makati and Quezon City, and lately, at their larger, newer branches at the Prism Plaza in the Mall of Asia Complex and at the Estancia Mall in Pasig. [Photo: @albarestaurante_ph]
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Alba (1952)
What is truly amazing is that whenever and wherever we dine there, the Callos remains exactly the same, with its balance between the chorizo and the morcillas, the clean taste and texture of the tripe, the generous garbanzos, and the sheer gelatinous richness of the sauce. There's also the signature lengua, the authentic paellas, and of course, the always crispy cochinillo. [Photo: @albarestaurante_ph]
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Alba (1952)
Imagine all these delicacies washed down with their excellent Sangria (it is pretty strong). That’s my “happy food” right there. Consistency and a deep devotion to quality. That’s why we keep on coming back, decade after decade. Alba Restaurate Español has branches in Tomas Morato Quezon City, Makati, Estancia Mall, Prism Plaza, and Westgate. For addresses, go to alba.com.ph. [Photo: @albarestaurante_ph].
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Milky Way Café (1962)
My dad was the ultimate foodie, and a lot of his favorites are still on this list. He knew all the spots for the best of the best, all over Metro Manila. We’d often drive deep into to the San Miguel district near Malacañang, at the very first Milky Way branch, to buy his favorite Buko Lychee Sherbet. We would also hang out at the Milky Way that used to be across Malate Church, where they sold bubble gum shaped like cigarettes, and packaged in “cigarette packs”. What can I say? The ‘80s were such an age of innocence! [Photo: @milkywaycafemakati]
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Milky Way Café (1962)
While those first branches are long gone, the sherbets remain. Milky Way isn’t labeled as such, but it’s a kitchen rooted in Pampanga, hence the “accept no substitutes” extravagance of the dishes. The Kare-Kare and the Dinuguan are my two of my Go-To comfort food favorites.[Photo: @milkywaycafemakati]
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Milky Way Café (1962)
But I have to admit, my numero uno favorite in Milky Way is another very cool treat: their magnificent Ginumis! Location: 900 Arnaiz Avenue, Milky Way Building, Makati. [Photo: @milkywaycafemakati].
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Barrio Fiesta (1952)
Rod Ongpauco, son of “Mama Chit”, Barrio Fiesta’s founder, accidentally invented Crispy Pata when he decided to deep fry pork trotters in an amateur kitchen experiment. He was all of 15 years old and that was over sixty years ago. His serendipitous special soon found its way into his mother’s menu, and an iconic dish was born. [Photo: @barriofiestarestaurantph]
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Barrio fiesta (1952)
It’s now difficult to imagine any Filipino restaurant without Crispy Pata, all thanks to Rod all those years ago. He must have kept something secret though, because Barrio Fiesta’s OG version still has that extra special oomph: that incomparable balance between the crunchy, tasty skin and the fatty, tender meat underneath. Not surprising at all that this still is the bestseller in all the Barrio Fiestas, and recently, the SM North branch launched a “Pata-All-You-Can” Promo every Friday. [Photo: @barriofiestarestaurantph]
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Barrio Fiesta (1952)
Run, don’t walk, and to pair with it, order Barrio Fiesta’s old school Kare-Kare, made from scratch, using their very own bespoke, exclusive peanut butter. And yes, you can buy a jar of that to bring home too.[Photo: @barriofiestarestaurantph]
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Dulcinea (1963)
It all began as “La Cibeles”, a tiny pasteleria in the Ermita district. It was a favorite merienda place for us siblings after school, while we waited for my mom to finish her workday at the nearby Philippine Airlines office on the Boulevard. All the pastries were in display in the front, but it was at the dining area next to it where the magic happened: Churros con Chocolate!!! [Photo: @dulcinea_ph]
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Dulcinea (1963)
The crisp Churros and the ultra thick Chocolate served in a delicate demitasse. It was a fascinating place, a glimpse of Spain in the middle of old Manila. I recall that the lady behind the counter was a very mestiza señorita. Eventually La Cibeles was sold, changed hands several times, and is now “Dulcinea”, owned by a couple from Iloilo. Dulcinea was their favorite date place when they were dating, and when the opportunity presented itself, they bought the business. I’m very grateful to them. Their Churros con Chocolate remains my gold standard, even better than the versions I tried in Barcelona and Madrid. No contest, really. Call it La Cibeles or call it Dulcinea, but here, churros is forever. [Photo: @dulcinea_ph]
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Masuki / Ma Mon Luk (1930)
The original on Benavides St. in Chinatown has always been the one and only Ma Mon Luk for me. That’s what my dad used to call it, and even though it has had a couple of name changes, and is now “Masuki”. Its FB page description is “The Antigua Mami in Binondo since 1930”, so it really is ground zero for mami. [Photo: @masuki1930]
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Masuki / Ma Mon Luk (1930)
. I have so many vivid childhood memories of the restaurant, including once of taking a calesa (!) from our house in Sta. Cruz to enjoy our family’s favorite mami. And to this day, the restaurant still looks very much as it did back then: the heavy wooden chairs, the (slightly greasy) linoleum tabletops, the black and white floor tiles, and at the back, the cook snip-snipping away at the noodles using those heavy black shears that look like they’ve been in service since pre-World War II. That’s why Ma Mon Luk/Masuki’s mami was nicknamed “gupit” back in the day. [Photo: @masuki1930]
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Masuki / Ma Mon Luk (1930)
There really is nothing like it, and there is nothing like enjoying the spring onion sprinkled chicken mami with those humongous siopao (insert the tip of the squeeze bottle and inject the brown sauce!) and their oversized siomai. It’s more than a meal. It really is a journey back in time.
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Old Swiss Inn (1946)
Pop Quiz Hotshot: what’s the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Old Swiss Inn? If you answer: Fondue, good answer Gen Z! If you say Raclette, nice call, Millennial! But if you say Black Forest Cake, you’re surely Gen X or a Baby Boomer, and you had your very first, and most authentic taste of the Kirsch-doused German cake at the Old Swiss Inn in Paco. There used to be small bakery in the Old Swiss Inn during the time of the first President Marcos, and that cake was legit. So legit that no other Black Forest cake’s come close since. It’s now just a beautiful taste memory, but Old Swiss Inn still is one of the finest --- and yes, most romantic --- restaurants in the city. [Photo: oldswissinn]
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Old Swiss Inn (1946)
The quaint charm of a Swiss Chalet, the amazing staff (many have been there for over thirty years) in their lederhosen and dirndls, and the food: the corned beef and sauerkraut, both made in-house, the raclette and all its accouterments (in photo). [@oldswissinn]
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Old Swiss Inn (1946)
And finally, the chocolate fondue. Old Swiss Inn, I hope, will return to 24/7 operations soon, because their Toblerone fondue is the sweetest ending to a date night ever. [Photo: @oldswissinn]
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Via Mare (1975)
I don’t often ask to have a picture taken with celebrities, but when I met Ms. Glenda Barretto for the first time not too long ago, I was awed and just a little bit tongue-tied. This lady has done so much to advance the profile and prominence of Philippine cuisine that I was grateful just for the chance to shake her hand. Restaurateur, author, world class caterer, etc. etc, etc. I was intimidated, honestly, but she turned out to be a warm and friendly lady, and we fell into an easy conversation that lasted through dinner. I had to tell her how often I’d find time to dine at Via Mare for the Crispy Adobo Flakes-silog, or the many occasions I’d bring balikbayans for the magnificent Oysters. [Photo: @viamareph]
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Via Mare (1975)
And the countless times I’d get a Bibingka or Puto Bumbong to-go, to have a little taste of Christmas, any time of the year. So, yes, I gushed like a fanboy, and the gracious lady that she is accepted my compliments with genuine pride and pleasure. Legend indeed. A Queen. And yes, I will always treasure that selfie I took with her. [Photo: @viamareph]
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Korea Garden (1974)
The love story behind Korea Garden really should be made into a Netlfix series: “Once upon a time, during the Korean War, a young Filipino soldier met a beautiful Korean woman in the heart of Pusan. It was a complete fairytale: they fell in love and tied the knot in Manila in 1952.” They raised a beautiful family, and in 1974, the couple opened the very first Korean restaurant in the Philippines. It’s the most wonderful example of a restaurant being passed on from one generation to the next. I was first brought there by my brother’s in-laws, the Venturas, back in 1989. And I’ve been loving it since. {Photo: @koreagardenph]
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Korea Garden (1974)
It’s now a perennial first choice with our Hizon clan for birthdays and reunions, and for good reason. The best, the #1 Korean Beef Stew in the land: that in itself is already makes this restaurant a destination. A most elegant Yukhoe, or Korean Beef Tartare. The Banchan, generous and fresh. And yes, bottles of Soju that are easy on the wallet. But most of all, we keep coming back because the staff really is like family. This is much more than a favorite restaurant; Korea Garden is home. Location: 128 Jupiter Street, Bel-Air, Makati. [Photo: @koreagardenph].
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