Maria Katrina Paras

The New Baguio Itinerary: Unique Stays, Scenic Trails, and Hearty Eats Inside Camp John Hay

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<p>I’ve been going to Baguio since I was five years old, and now that I’m in my 30s, it still hasn’t lost its magic. There’s something about being enveloped by pine trees and caressed by cool winds that simply calms the senses. Time slows down. Nature rejuvenates. Serenity abounds. </p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176154834390520251010_122540.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">New experiences await in the blue mountains of Baguio.</span></span></span></div><p>I have my usual go-tos when I visit this charming Summer Capital, but it’s time to seek the unique. The City of Pines has leveled up—offering new ways to experience comfort and culture, all tucked inside the beloved <strong>Camp John Hay (CJH)</strong>.</p><p>If you think you’ve seen everything Baguio has to offer, think again. Here are the most novel experiences from my recent trip that you must try at least once when you go to the high north:</p><div><br/></div><div><strong>1. Stay in a Celebrity Mansion: The White House of the Lord of Scents</strong></div><p>Right in the middle of Camp John Hay stands one of the city’s most-talked-about stays—<a href="https://www.facebook.com/whitehouseofthelordofscents" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank"><strong>The White House by JC</strong></a>, owned by none other than perfume mogul <strong>Joel Cruz</strong>, a.k.a. &quot;The Lord of Scents&quot;. </p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176154856442920251022_193504.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">Night and day grandeur—The White House will wow any guest who enters.</span></span></span></div><p>Famous for his<strong> Aficionado perfume </strong>empire, Cruz built this mansion as his private sanctuary before opening it up for guests to experience what it’s like to live (and lounge) like the man himself. Think: <em>celebrity home tour meets fancy staycation.</em></p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176154962516620251022_221324.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner" spellcheck="false"></span></span></span></div><p>From swimming to movie marathons, there’s a variety of things to do at The White House.</p><p>Walking in feels like visiting your long-lost wealthy uncle’s vacation house—one that has a <strong>movie theater, salon/spa, indoor pool, hot tub, roof deck, and game room</strong>. The rooms come with comfy beds, a tub, a kitchenette (major plus!), and a view of the golf course if you’re lucky. Service is warm and snappy—great qualities of Baguio hospitality.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176154986176920251010_112543.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">The bedroom is spacious and can fit up to six people.</span></span></span></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176154991312820251012_091243.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">Our room’s balcony opens up to this view of CJH’s golf course.</span></span></span></div><p>The mansion was designed in collaboration with the late <strong>Architect Ruben Payumo</strong>, a highly creative and spatial genius. It was the official architect of the <strong>Bases Conversion and Development Authority (BCDA</strong><strong>)</strong> of Camp John Hay. Built with both vision and respect for nature, the house was intentionally designed around the trees—none were uprooted, just gracefully embraced by the structure.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176154997945020251022_193309.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">There are Parisian-inspired lounge areas on both the first and second floors.</span></span></span></div><p>The result? A modern take on a Parisian rest house—using concrete and warm wood to create an external visual balance, softened by glass walls that let the outdoors pour in. Sunlight streams through every corner, while a central circular fireplace anchors the living room, instantly setting the tone for lazy, firelit nights.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176155009325220251022_221415.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">It’s all about the intricate details and decor for Joel Cruz’s Baguio mansion.</span></span></span></div><p>This isn’t just any house, either. The mansion has had its share of screen time—it doubled as the <strong>Saavedra Mansion in Forevermore</strong> (yes, the teleserye that launched LizQuen into fame), and later reappeared in<strong> The Broken Marriage Vow</strong> (remember that fiery dining scene which made the line “<em>Papunta pa lang tayo sa</em> exciting part” a pop culture reference? Yep, it was shot here).</p><p>It’s cinematic, it’s storied, and it’s unmistakably Baguio—elegant, a little dramatic, and full of grandeur.</p><p>The interiors are very Joel Cruz: French-inspired, a touch extravagant, but still grounded. Colors are muted and neutral, but decorated with intricate pieces reminiscent of the Renaissance. You’ll spot <strong>murals of him and his family, a quadruple-tier crystal chandelier</strong> twinkling down the grand spiral staircase, and hints of Parisian flair softened by mountain charm. The four-floor mansion has an elevator for more convenient and straightforward navigation to guest rooms and amenities, too. </p><p>One major thing to highlight is the location—it’s central. Because it sits inside Camp John Hay, you’re minutes away from the Country Club, Yellow Trail, and aesthetically cool Baguio restaurants and cafés.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1761550231253TWH Baguio.png" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">The White House grabs the attention of passers-by with its glass windows and massive size.</span></span></span></div><p><strong>Real talk: </strong>Rooms could use <strong>dehumidifiers</strong> instead of humidifiers to keep things fresh (Baguio moisture is no joke). Custom slippers, robes, and toiletries would also give guests that five-star polish. Cleanliness? Almost there—just needs that extra refinement for perfection. Still, it’s a stay worth trying at least once. After all, how often do you get to say you slept in the Lord of Scents’ house?</p><div><br/></div><div><strong>2. Take a Forest Bath at the Yellow Trail</strong></div><p>If you’re craving a nature fix, the <strong>Yellow Trail </strong>is a mere 7-minute drive from the White House. It’s a 90-minute loop that winds through pine forests, mossy paths, and glorious lookouts over Baguio’s mountain ridges.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176155086425420251022_192452.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">Baguio’s Yellow Trail will leave any hiker in awe.</span></span></span></div><p>Locals call it “forest bathing”—a Japanese concept that simply means letting nature heal you. The mix of sunlight and pine air feels medicinal, boosting serotonin and melting away that Manila stress. It’s beginner-friendly, too—just the right amount of careful strides and uphill walk that clears your head. Pro tip: go early morning for that golden glow through the trees.</p><div><br/></div><div><strong>3. Unwind at the New Baguio Country Club Wellness Center</strong></div><p>After your hike, reward yourself at the <strong></strong>new <strong>Wellness Center of Baguio Country Club (BCC)</strong>, now partnered with <a href="https://www.instagram.com/nurturewellnessvillage/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank"><strong>Nurture Spa Village</strong></a> (yes, the same group known for holistic treatments in Tagaytay).</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176155096667520251022_212126.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">BCC’s newest addition to the establishment is their very own Wellness Center.</span></span></span></div><p>The new building is glossy and modern—think polished tiles, natural wood, glass windows, and that signature mountain calm. The <strong>Aruga Massage </strong>is the one to get: a blend of deep pressure and nurturing strokes that feels like a warm reset, using their own brand of organic essential oils called Amu’in that adds to the body&#x27;s bliss. There’s also the soothing and therapeutic <strong>Dagdagay,</strong> the Cordillera’s traditional tribal foot massage, which involves rhythmic strokes with bamboo sticks and is perfect after a morning of hiking. For intensive muscular relief, <strong>Nilaib</strong> is a deep treatment that uses steamed banana leaf-wrapped pouches (instead of the usual hot stones) filled with healing herbs that are sure to provide much-needed rejuvenation.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176155115925220251022_211943.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">With the service excellence and spa expertise of Nurture Wellness at BCC, this collaboration is a sure treat to travelers and locals alike! </span></span></span></div><p>Rooms come with <strong>bathtubs, organic toiletries, and scenic views. </strong>The <strong>staff are incredibly skilled,</strong> and the<strong> yoga + fitness studio </strong>on the lower ground completes the experience. Golfers even get custom wellness programs. Whether you’re a spa regular or a weekend warrior, this place easily ranks as one of the best new wellness spots in the city.</p><p>Do note: since the <strong>Baguio Country Club is a members-only facility</strong> (see house rules <a href="https://thebaguiocountryclub.com/reminders-and-policies/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">here</a>), <strong>non-members who wish to try the spa</strong> must first contact the Wellness Center. Once the guest coordinations are set, spa visitors may enter the premises and claim their guest card from the reception. This comes with a small additional fee on top of the spa rates (non-members’ access fee). It’s an extra step, but worth it once you’re inside—tranquility, relaxation, and impeccable service await. <em>For bookings, contact +63919 079 7966.</em></p><div><br/></div><div><strong>4. Eat a Hearty Greek Meal at Lemon &amp; Olives</strong></div><p>A few minutes from Camp John Hay sits <a href="https://www.instagram.com/lemonandolivesph" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank"><strong>Lemon &amp; Olives</strong></a>, a rustic Greek restaurant that’s been delighting both tourists and locals since <strong>June 2016</strong>.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176155223173920251022_193022.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">Lemon &amp; Olives is one of Baguio’s OGs when it comes to impeccable mountain dining.</span></span></span></div><p>The story is almost cinematic: a Filipino family met <strong>Chef Takis</strong>, a Greek chef looking for a new start after moving from La Union. They decided to open a restaurant together—and the perfect spot turned out to be a<strong> 1930s American home</strong> once owned by an American doctor (and later, the elegant <strong>Elvira Manahan</strong>).</p><p>“Lemon &amp; Olives serves authentic Greek flavors with Baguio’s cool air and stunning views,” shares the owner, <strong>Arielle Mendoza</strong>. “Friendly staff, cozy interiors, and food made with heart make you feel at home.”</p><p>The lamb chops remain the show-stealer—grilled over charcoal, juicy, smoky, and perfectly seasoned. But there’s so much more worth the visit.</p><p>Start light with the<strong> L&amp;O Salad</strong>, one of the best in town—a crisp medley of romaine, cucumbers, sun-dried tomatoes, walnuts, cranberries, and parmesan tossed in a refreshing honey-lemon dressing. For something indulgent, go for the<strong> Meli Saganaki</strong>, pan-fried Greek cheese served with oregano, honey, and a tart strawberry compote—a perfect dance of salty, sweet, and fruity.</p><p>The<strong> Zucchini Chips</strong> are dangerously addictive—thinly sliced, lightly fried, and best dunked in their famous tzatziki dip (honestly, that dip goes with everything). For something heartier, the Greek Kebab Platter is a feast: tender grilled meat skewers served with rice, fries, and pita. Smother it in tzatziki and it’s an instant mood-lifter (for non-carnivores, their seafood platter is recommended, too).</p><p>For drinks, go for something refreshingly simple: the <strong>freshly squeezed lemonade</strong> hits perfectly with the mountain air, while the <strong>lemon-apple juice</strong> adds a sweet-tart balance to the rich mains. If you want something warm and aromatic, their <strong>Greek coffee</strong> packs a bold punch, and the<strong> tarragon tea</strong> is light, soothing, and distinctly herbal—ideal for slow sipping in the cool weather.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176155245196620251022_192848.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">The dishes at L&amp;O are packed with Greek flavors and the freshness of Baguio’s produce.</span></span></span></div><p>Pasta lovers shouldn’t miss the<strong> Mediterranean Pasta</strong>, a gorgeous olive-oil-based mix of capers, basil, garlic, olives, seafood, and parmesan. Then end on a sweet, sunny note with their <strong>Ekmek</strong>—a traditional Greek dessert of crispy phyllo pastry soaked in lemon-honey syrup, layered with custard and cream.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/176155253974620251012_114305.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">Gaia is the latest frozen yogurt variant that satisfies pistachio cravings.</span></span></span></div><p>Before you go, treat yourself to their delicious <strong>frozen yogurt.</strong> The recent variant addition—<strong>Gaia</strong>—is heavenly, topped with pistachio cream, crushed pistachios, and knafeh. For a more authentically Greek flavor, get the <strong>Demeter,</strong> topped with baklava bits, or the Athena, sprinkled with honey, walnuts, sea salt, and olive oil. It’s the kind of dessert that tastes like summer in the Mediterranean—even in the cool Baguio breeze.</p><p>Though Chef Takis passed away in 2021, his legacy lives on in every dish. The team continues to keep his recipes—and the restaurant’s soul—beautifully alive.</p><div><br/></div><div><strong>5. Take Home French Pastries from L’Atelier du Grain</strong></div><p>Before heading back to the lowlands, make one last stop at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/latelier.baguio" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank"><strong>L’Atelier du Grain </strong></a>(The Grain Workshop), under the culinary leadership and excellence of <strong>Chef Didier Derouet</strong>, a French-native world-class pastry chef who now calls Baguio home. Needless to say, it’s the first authentic French bakery in the City of Pines.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1761552928069474982482_122186914688140712_1642529690123557757_n.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">Chef Didier Derouet, doing what he does best.</span></span></span></div><p>The pastries—<strong>croissants (the filled ones are unforgettable), pan au chocolat, and kouign amann</strong> (my top recommendations and their best sellers)—have created daily beelines at their Military Cut-Off branch (beside The Gallery restaurant, another personal favorite). To cater to more pastry and bread lovers, they’ve put up two more locations—the <strong>Paladin Hotel </strong>and a kiosk at the second level of <strong>SM Baguio</strong>. Every baked good, from the <strong>panocha banana bread</strong> to the delectable<strong> tarts</strong> to<strong> sourdough</strong> and<strong> focaccia breads</strong>, is made fresh with premium ingredients and French precision.</p><div><br/></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded" style="width:700px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1761553055859470975370_17893079610107058_3986917977520459056_n.jpg" style="width:700px" class="fr-fic fr-dib fr-rounded"/><span class="fr-inner">The perfect pasalubong coming down from Baguio—a box of French pastries from L’Atelier du Grain.</span></span></span></div><p>If you’re driving down, bring a box (or two)—these are the kind of pasalubong that won’t even make it past Kennon Road. Too good to resist? Order via <strong>Grab Pabili </strong>for a quick fix.</p><div><br/></div><div><strong>A New Kind of Baguio</strong></div><p>Luxury doesn’t have to mean stiff or formal—it can be soulful, warm, and just a little bit scented with pine. Between Joel Cruz’s lavish villa, the quiet magic of the Yellow Trail, a spa day at the Country Club, Greek comfort food at Lemon &amp; Olives, and buttery French pastries at L’Atelier du Grain—you’ll rediscover Baguio as more than a quick escape.</p><p>To me, it’s always been a city of indulgent calm, where every experience feels like a breath of fresh mountain air.</p>

The New Baguio Itinerary: Unique Stays, Scenic Trails, and Hearty Eats Inside Camp John Hay

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The New Baguio Itinerary: Unique Stays, Scenic Trails, and Hearty Eats Inside Camp John Hay

Danah Gutierrez

Published October 27, 2025 04:00 PM PHT

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Updated October 27, 2025 04:29 PM PHT

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2025

Travel

Baguio

The White House Baguio

Camp John Hay

Baguio Itinerary

Lemon & Olives Baguio

L’Atelier du Grain Baguio

The Grain Workshop Baguio

Joel Cruz House Baguio

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