RECAP: All The Best Haute Couture Shows Of S/S ’24 | ABS-CBN

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RECAP: All The Best Haute Couture Shows Of S/S ’24

RECAP: All The Best Haute Couture Shows Of S/S ’24

Randz Manucom

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Updated Jan 29, 2024 04:11 PM PHT

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Maison Margiela


Under the Pont d’Alexandre III bridge, in a Parisian nighttime venue, John Galliano orchestrated a mezmerizing couture experience, marking a return to his unapologetic, fantastical style. Inspired by Brassai’s 1920s and ’30s depictions of Paris’s underworld, Galliano's production seamlessly integrated film into the scenario, depicting lovers, dancers, and gangsters along the Seine.


The show featured immaculate corsetry, padded hips, erotically sheer lace dresses, and imaginative hair and makeup, presenting a world of rebels and romantic-historical fantasies. Some of Galliano’s techniques, resembling walking paintings with greenish-pink watercolor nudes, left indelible impressions, including controversial elements like visible pubic hair through tulle and lace. With Pat McGrath’s incredible doll-like beauty looks, the show proved to be that of magic. John Galliano's show is bold affirmation of the value of extreme creativity and the power of celebrating the underdogs.


Fendi


At the Fendi Haute Couture show, Kim Jones opened with a minimal black strapless calf-length column he termed a 'box-dress,' repeating the geometric shape at the finale adorned with silver beads. Kim went for a stunning show of romantic hues and silhouettes that came strong with a futuristic approach. He drew inspiration from Fendi's historical futurism under Karl Lagerfeld. Emphasizing Fendi's heritage in fur, fine leather, and bags, Jones incorporated couture 'bags and baguettes' into the collection, including tiny color-matched bags with fringes hanging on chains. The trompe l'oeil decorativeness took an unexpected turn with fur-inspired embroidery, utilizing minuscule filaments in densely overlapping rippling formations for feather-like, lightweight coats, dresses, and pencil skirts.


Jones also addressed the red carpet experience, introducing the 'shapes-on-shapes dress'—slim, neutral-colored looks featuring abstracted bugle-beaded silhouettes, anticipating their appearance on the awards scene in the near future.

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Alaïa


Pieter Mulier's Alaïa show unfolded at the Seine. While Parisian bridges as runways have become a recent trend, Mulier selected this one for its sentimental value and breathtaking views of iconic landmarks. The show, featuring latex-clad and visibly thonged women, reflected Mulier's desire to explore personal obsessions and redefine femininity. Drawing on the tradition of chic bourgeois women displaying underwear in high fashion, Mulier faced the challenge of infusing Alaïa's empathetic celebration of womanhood with contemporary relevance.


Time-consuming techniques, like the meticulous opaque-sheer splicing of leather and fabric strips, showcased Mulier's dedication to craftsmanship. However, the show missed the opportunity to embrace the joyful self-glorification of female bodies seen in pop culture, with a narrow casting that excluded the diverse body shapes celebrated by the younger generation. The article encourages Mulier to embrace a new vision of the Amazonian power embedded in Alaïa's legacy that encompasses both the soul and pulse of the brand.


Schiaparelli



Daniel Roseberry's surreal sci-fi Western Haute Couture collection has created a buzz on the internet even before the show concluded, featuring a robot baby, a dress with a faux horse's tail, and a space pod-inspired bodice. Daniel reflected on the questions surrounding creativity and humanity in the age of machine learning. The collection itself is a fusion of retro technology, classic sci-fi, and nods to haute couture history and Roseberry's Texan roots. Exoskeleton dresses, a 3D spine inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli, and silver-tipped Western belt buckles turned into a corset showcased the melding of past influences.


The designer incorporated nostalgic tech elements in robot-woman dresses, paying homage to Sigourney Weaver's Ripley in the Alien series. The pieces demonstrated Roseberry's commitment to celebrating the handmade artistry of the craft, drawing inspiration from Cristóbal Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent. If anything was proven, the work of humanity still has heart any AI-generated thing can’t do just yet.


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